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Madness in Hanoi

A quick glimpse of our first day in Hanoi, Vietnam.

Honestly, I was a bit nervous coming to Vietnam.  Travelers we’ve met over the past 8.5 months and everything we’ve read on blogs and message boards tends to elicit the same varied respnoses.  People either love it or hate it.  The people who claim the latter responses always cite the same reasons: the people aren’t friendly, there’s too many touts, everyone’s trying to rip you off, and it’s just too intense.

It didn’t take long for us to form an opinion ourselves about Vietnam after spending just a day in Hanoi.  And while some may say that a day certainly isn’t long enough to form an opinion on a country, I say bollocks.  I am pretty confident in our instincts, and our first instinct told us we love it here.

As you can see by the videos, yes, it’s pretty crazy here.  The traffic is chaotic pretty much everywhere in Hanoi, and crossing the street is an adventure.  Sure, there are plenty of touts hassling tourists, but hey, that’s just how it is when traveling in countries with a lot of poverty.  It’s really not much different than Lima or La Paz or Bangkok or New York or any other huge city that draws lots of tourists.  That’s just how it is, and the sooner tourists realize that, the better time they’ll have.  A simple “No, thank you” and a smile usually does the trick, although it might have to be said anywhere between 1 and 10 times.

As far as friendliness goes, I just don’t see the basis for all the complaints we’ve heard.  We’ve gotten countless huge smiles from locals when walking down the street, including several emphatic waves from small children who I’m sure are quite curious about us.  The workers in our hostel our great as well.  Sure, we’ve gotten a little iciness from a server or two, and we’ve gotten some annoyed looks from a few touts after being stern with them after being hassled, but honestly, those were few and far between so far.

As with any kind of traveling in a foreign country, it pays to do your homework.  We knew going in that touts could be relentless and that there were countless scams in Hanoi.  All it took was  a little bit of research before going to a new place, which is invaluable (in my eyes) and is something that I’m starting to learn many travelers don’t do, which would obviously factor in to the fact that someone may not like a place.

So when we were on the minibus coming from the airport and a “friendly” local got on the bus when we got into the city to offer his services to help us find our accommodations, we knew he was most likely full of shit and just wanted to get us to go to a different hotel so he could collect a commission.

While  it sucks sometimes to be so negative and think that someone’s always trying to scam you, that probably explains why we really haven’t been taken for anything on this trip.  We paid attention to where we were and where our hotel was located,  and while we were stopped close to where we thought our place was, we asked to get off.  Our friendly local told us that our place was still up further and insisted that we were wrong even though we were holding a map, pointing to the street signs evident from inside the bus, and showing hiim exactly where our hotel was.  He was pretty animated about telling us we were wrong, but we trusted our instinct, got our bags, and got off the bus.  We were right, and our hotel was right around the corner.

So while there are little headaches that one has to deal with in cities like Hanoi, just simple awareness can have a major effect on how people like a certain place.  For us, the energy, excitement, great variety and quality of food, drinking, and shopping, and beautiful sites of Hanoi completely make up for any touts or scammers that we have to deal with.

Our first day here consisted of just wandering, getting to know the city (which is something we always tend to do on our first day in a big city) and researching and booking a trip to Halong Bay.

Today we started off the day with a run in the park that surrounds a huge lake in the middle of the city.  Because of the heat here, the park was absolutely packed at 7 in the morning with runners, walkers, vendors, and groups of elderly Chinese women doing Tai Chi.  After that we ate a typical Vietnamese breakfast of Pho (beef and noodle soup) before heading to the Temple of Literature, one of the most famous sites in Hanoi.

Mmmmm, Breakfast--on a side note, go to Pho Grand for dinner tonight; they do a great job of cooking authentic Vietnamese cuisine

Mmmmm, Breakfast--on a side note, go to Pho Grand for dinner tonight; they do a great job of cooking authentic Vietnamese cuisine

The  Temple of Literature was the city’s first university, founded in 1076 and educating students for over 800 years until 1919 (side note:  It’s pretty astounding to be in a country and city with so much history; for example, Hanoi will celebrate it’s one THOUSANDTH anniversary as a city next year in 2010.  ONE THOUSAND YEARS!!!!  Sorry, I just think that’s amazing and feel pretty blessed to be in a place so historic).  It’s a 14 acre complex of temples, pavilions, and courtyards that now serves as a tourist attraction and place of worship.  Despite the heat and crowds, it was a beautiful place to visit.

Entrance gate to the Temple of Literature

Entrance gate to the Temple of Literature

Courtyard of Sages (in the Temple of Literature complex)

Courtyard of Sages (in the Temple of Literature complex)

Detail Shot

Detail Shot

Constellation of Literature

Constellation of Literature

Well of Heavenly Clarity

Well of Heavenly Clarity

Place of Offering inside the Great House of Ceremonies

Place of Offering inside the Great House of Ceremonies

Statue of Confucius

Statue of Confucius

We went to a local restaurant and ate the local seafood  dish for lunch, and now are just resting during the middle and hottest part of the day.  Tomorrow we take off for a 3 day trip through Ha Long Bay, one of the supposed highlights of not only Vietnam but all of Southeast Asia.  We are extremely excited to see such a unique and beautiful place and hope that our instincts served us well in picking a tour operator, as scams and shadiness abound for Ha Long Bay trips.

Wish us luck, we’ll be off the grid for the next few days, and we’ll be back soon with tons of pictures and stories from our trip.  Until next time…

R & R

Ang Thong National Marine Park

Ang Thong National Marine Park

When  Megan last left you, we were getting our bearings back in Koh Samui, Thailand, an island in the south.  After our disappointments in Laos and our bout with homesickness, we needed something to get us out of our funk.  It turns out that a Thai island is just what the doctor ordered.

Though Koh Samui was a little more crowded, a little more developed, and not quite as stunningly beautiful as Koh Chang, the island we visited with my Mom and Andrea in May, it did the trick.  Though we complained about laziness and complacency when we were dealing with our little burnout thing, laziness and complacency didn’t seem to bother us when we were sitting on a beach in southern Thailand.

We lucked out and found an awesome little bungalow about 100 meters from the beach, complete with complimentary beach chairs and a very friendly staff.  There were the usual touts on the beach as there seem to be everywhere here in SE Asia, but they were all super friendly, always smiling, and very cordial when you gave them a “No Thank You”, provided it was accompanied by a big smile.

Most people’s complaints about Thailand are that it’s too touristy.  And while yes, it is that, it doesn’t seem to affect the local people.  They’re as friendly as ever, as evidenced by the two ice cream men (boys, really) that we became friends with throughout our week in Koh Samui.  Every day when they first saw us, they would come up to us, shake both of our hands, ask how our night was and what we did, and just sit and chat with us for a few minutes.  And every time they passed us throughout the day, they would always stop to say hello and see how we were doing.  And this was all before we ever bought a thing from either of them.  After a few days,  and since they were so nice, we did decide to purchase some ice cream from them a few times.  But it was solely because of the friendliness, I swear.

There’s not a whole lot more to tell about our time in Koh Samui.  We didn’t do much.  We had a few morning runs on the beach, and one morning we took a long walk early to get some pictures.

Hat Lamai

Hat Lamai 2

Hat Lamai 3

Hat Lamai 5

Hat Lamai 7

And while the weather was beautiful pretty much the entire time we were there, it did storm one late afternoon right before sunset, creating the opportunity for a great photoshoot.

Storm Pics

Storm Pics 2

Storm Pics 3

Storm Pics 4

Storm Pics 5

Storm Pics 6

Another great thing about Koh Samui was the seafood.  While we weren’t able to partake as often  as we would have liked to because of our limited budget, we did splurge for one dinner on the beach where we picked out our own red snapper and small, blue crabs that we ate for dinner.  We enjoyed a nice, quiet, beautiful, romantic beachfront dinner of the day’s fresh catch.

We had our choice

We had our choice

Our table for the night

Our table for the night

It wasn’t all lounging on the beach.  We did decide to take one day to visit the nearby Ang Thong National Marine Park, which consists of hundreds of little islands in the middle of the Gulf of Thailand.  We had a great day taking a boat ride around the islands and hiking straight up about 500 meters on one of the islands for some breathtaking views of the park.

Us

Ang Thong National Park

Ang Thong National Park 3

Ang Thong National Park 4

Ang Thong National Park 5

Ang Thong National Park 6

Ang Thong National Park 7

Ang Thong National Park 8

Ang Thong National Park 9

Us at Ang Thong National Park

And now we’re back in Bangkok for the fourth time, and it’s quickly becoming one of our favorite cities on the trip (Megan will have more on that in the next post).  We picked up our Vietnamese and Indian visas yesterday when we returned, and we fly to Hanoi on Tuesday, which we’re both very excited about.

We’ve also had many discussions about the end of this little adventure, as it is nearing.  While we haven’t made any clear cut decisions, yet, we are getting closer and closer to planning the rest of the trip and booking that final flight home back to the United States and St. Louis.  We don’t have an exact return date, yet, and the final decision depends on what kind of word we receive from Megan’s employer.  Hopefully we’ll find out sooner rather than later, and we will obviously keep everyone updated on our exact return date.

Have a great 4th of July weekend everyone, we miss you all a whole lot, and until next time…

The Cure

pink ladyIMG_1260

Thanks to everyone who left kind words to help lift us out of our funk.  We’re back in Thailand, have been fully reenergized by a couple of days in Bangkok and some quality beach time, complete with foufy drinks garnished with tropical flowers.  We’re officially back on our game.

I realize that the idea of getting burnt out on something as amazing as this adventure probably sounds preposterous–I was pretty baffled by it myself.  In the days after we left Laos, I did a lot of pondering (possibly to an obsessive level) about what went wrong.  In the time leading up to our visit, we met traveler after traveler gushing about their time in Laos.  Everyone we met who had actually been there (we met plenty of people who had done Southeast Asia and skipped Laos) was nothing but enthusiastic.  We had high hopes, as the two countries we’ve loved most so far on the trip, Columbia and Bolivia, had been described by other travelers with the same level of zeal.

We started out in a small town called Luang Nam Tha, in the north of the country.  We went there with the intention of doing some trekking, as the area is reputed to be home to some of the most socially and ecologically responsible hill-tribe trekking options.  (Hiking to remote villages inhabited by the native hill tribes is a popular pastime in the northern part of Southeast Asia.  There is a bit of a debate over the ethical concerns of such treks.)  We visited with several tour operators, but just did not get a good vibe about the programs–in theory, it sounded interesting, but I couldn’t help but think that it would either be (1) nothing more than a show put on for tourists, with no actual cultural authenticity, or (2) culturally authentic, but with our presence changing and hence damaging that culture.  We ultimately decided to scrap the trekking plan, meaning that our first stop in Laos was a bit of a bust.  The trip down to Luang Prabang was definitely an adventure though.

The entire old town of Luang Prabang is a World Heritage Site, preserved for its mixture of French Colonial architecture and beautiful Buddhist temples.  We enjoyed our time in Luang Prabang as it was the home of the Big Brother Mouse program that we loved so much.  The town was beautifully situated on the Mekong river and had some gorgeous waterfalls nearby.  It was definitely the highlight of our time in Laos.

Roadside Buddhas

Roadside Buddhas

School aged monks studying outside on the front steps of a Wat

School aged monks studying outside on the front steps of a Wat

Misty morning over the Mekong

Misty morning over the Mekong

Monks strolling the streets of Luang Prabang

Monks strolling the streets of Luang Prabang

The primary form of public transport in Laos--a lot of times there was a hammock tied up in the back with the driver sound asleep.

The primary form of public transport in Laos--a lot of times there was a hammock tied up in the back with the driver sound asleep.

The morning market filled a maze of alleyways in Luang Prabang with what seemed like every type of food available in Laos.

The morning market filled a maze of alleyways in Luang Prabang with what seemed like every type of food available in Laos.

That lizard at the bottom was alive and angry.  On the white cloth?  Dried whole fish.

That lizard at the bottom was alive and angry. On the white cloth? Dried whole fish.

Those buckets were filled with thrashing fish and the chickens--well, the chickens were still bleeding.

Those buckets were filled with thrashing fish and the chickens--well, the chickens were still bleeding.

Rice for sale

Rice for sale

Ladies selling produce.  The smoke in the background is from the many barbecues set up to cook up breakfast for hungry shoppers.

Ladies selling produce. The smoke in the background is from the many barbecues set up to cook up breakfast for hungry shoppers.

Kuang Si waterfall

Kuang Si waterfall

Swimming hole at Kuang Si

Swimming hole at Kuang Si

waterfall

The monks in the background were taking turns wading out onto the falls and having their pictures taken.  The little girl on the rope swing was not impressed.  :-)

The monks in the background were taking turns wading out onto the falls and having their pictures taken. The little girl on the rope swing was not impressed. :-)

waterfall small

After our time in Luang Prabang, we made a pit stop at Vang Vieng, one of the most peculiar places I have ever visited.  It is a small town situated amongst some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen–limestone cliffs flanking a beautiful river.  Yet the main thing that Vang Vieng is known for is tubing, happy shakes and space pizzas.  Backpackers flock to this small town to veg out in cafes while watching Friends reruns that play on endless repeat all over town, suck down mushroom-laced shakes and drunkenly float down the river in giant inner tubes.  I love a good float trip as much as the next person–I am from Missouri, after all–but this place was just odd.  I may have proclaimed it to be wretched while we were there, but I’ll just leave it at odd.

By the time we made our way to Vientiane, the capital, the blahs had really taken hold.  The town was sleepy and pleasant, but I just couldn’t get past what seemed to me as a lack of passion.  I just didn’t feel the energy that makes me grow to love a place.  For some reason, the slow pace and reserved people that are so charming to some others felt so flat to me, so lacking passion and cultural zest.  We finally decided that we had tried to like it long enough–we didn’t want to waste any more time exploring a place that we didn’t love.

We’re now back in a place that we love–Thailand.  We  were going to try to work in a trip to Cambodia while our visas for Vietnam and India processed, but the visa process left us passport-less.  Domestic travel was our only option, so we bit the bullet and headed to the Thai island of Koh Samui.  We’re having a great time here and could not be more excited about our upcoming trip to Vietnam.

~Meg

A little over 8 months.  251 days.  Sleeping in different beds and rooms every few nights.  Traveling on public transportation or walking everywhere we go.  Dealing with language and cultural barriers at each turn.  Eating strange food.  Not being able to drink water out  of a tap.  No family.  No friends.  No Imo’s.  No Cardinal baseball.  No Phish tour.

All of this, along with missing our family get-togethers on Father’s Day, missing our niece Julia’s 1st birthday (and most of the first year of her life), remembering my grandpa one year after he passed, and dealing with the first sickness of the trip (which is pretty lucky for both of us), has added up to create a weird few days for us.  We heard about travel burnout before we left, but I honestly dismissed it as ridiculous.  How can one possibly get burned out by not working for a whole year, seeing one awe-inspiring site and landscape after another, and experiencing new and exciting cultures on a regular basis?  It’s difficult to explain, but believe me, it does happen.

Now I’m certainly not looking for any sympathy here.  Quite the contrary.  I really just want to share that it’s not all rosy and wonderful all the time.  Yes, this is the trip of a lifetime, and I do realize how lucky we are to experience all this, but it’s not just a year long vacation of sitting on beaches and relaxing.  This long term travel  business can be hard work sometimes.   It hasn’t happened often, but sometimes we just hit a wall.  The last few days we seemed to have slammed head first into that wall.  Maybe it was talking to our families while they were celebrating Father’s Day, maybe it was not really digging Laos like we thought we would, maybe it was just the fact that we crave some familiarity in a place where there is nothing familiar.  I can’t quite put my finger on it, but we are missing home more than any other time on the trip.

So what to do?  How does a long term traveler get out of this funk?  I can see my father-in-law reading this right now and screaming “Just come home!!!!” at his computer screen.  And while that does sound really appealing right about now, I‘ve always been taught not to be a quitter.  So we’ve decided to change plans a bit.

One thing we were really looking forward to on this portion of the trip was the freedom to do what we want when we wanted.  Unlike any other time in the trip, we have nothing at all booked.  No flights, no apartments, no treks, nothing.  Sure, we had a rough plan of what we wanted to do, but we didn’t HAVE to be anywhere.  And while we were both really excited about this, I think we got a little lazy and complacent.  After my mom and sister left us in  Chiang Mai, we’ve spent the better part of the last month not really doing much.  And while we both enjoy not doing much and being lazy, I think the lack of activity had a really  negative effect  on us.  It’s another thing that contributed to our feeling of burnout.

So we’re changing the plans starting tomorrow.  We were originally planning on spending the next couple weeks in southern Laos.  For one reason or another (and I’m not blaming Laos), we are just not feeling it here.  We heard so many great things about this country, and while it hasn’t been bad, there’s just something missing.  We really can’t put our fingers on it, but after much discussion and changing of plans on a minute by minute basis, we have decided to scrap the rest of our time in Laos and head back to Bangkok.  We leave tomorrow afternoon and take a bus/overnight train combo back to Bangkok from Vientiane.

We also booked a flight from Bangkok to Hanoi, Vietnam on July 7.  So we have a little less than two weeks to play with.  First things first, we have to arrange our Vietnamese and Indian visas while in Bangkok (if you’re reading this  because you’re planning a similar trip that includes India, look into visa requirements; they’re a pain, and it will be helpful to know this beforehand instead of scrambling).  We had originally planned on going to Cambodia after Vietnam, but it’s looking  like we might head into Cambodia and see Angkor Wat, one of the few “must-see’s” we had when planning the trip, before we go to Vietnam.  We may still go into Cambodia and see more after Vietnam, but that remains to be seen.  Also, Indonesia, which was never even talked about when planning, is looking more and more likely before we head to India.

While it was difficult to scrap the rest of Laos, I think we both feel good about our plans over the next few weeks and are starting to get excited again.  While the freedom to decide on the fly is good, there’s something to be said about having a bit of a plan sometimes.  That freedom gave way to indecision and became the topic of one frustrating conversation after another.

So tomorrow we head back to Thailand.  Within a week it looks like we are going to see one of the world’s most amazing sights in Angkor Wat.  After that, it’s off to Vietnam.  Before we know it, the plans for the end of the trip are going to have to be solidified, which is both frightening and exciting.  The end of the trip has been looked at in a negative manner (especially by me) for most of the trip.  Talk of extending it has been a topic of discussion all along.  Now it’s different.  Even before this “travel burnout” set in, I’ve turned the corner in a way.  While I know when this is all over I will go through periods of longing to be in exotic places doing exciting things, I’ve also realized how much I truly love home.  I have always known this, obviously, but I think I have really come to appreciate our home, family, and friends instead of taking it all for granted.  While four months seems like a long time, we’ll be home before you know it, and for the first time since we left, I am really excited at that prospect.

Until next time…

Tales of Pai

Huts on the Pai River

“I went to Pai for three days and stayed for two weeks.”

“Yeah, you’ll get stuck in Pai, but it’s a good stuck”

“There’s heaps to do, but it’s also a perfect place to do nothing.”

We had been considering a visit to Pai after reading about it (described by various guidebooks as a small town set on a river in the foothills of the Himalayas that has developed as a haven for Thai artists) but hearing other travelers rave about it cemented our plans. After a week in Chiang Mai, we were off to Pai.

We organized our trip up to Pai and were surprised to hear that the relatively short (distance-wise) trip to Pai was scheduled to take between four and five hours. The next alarming bit of news came when we were advised to make the trip on an empty stomach. We set out from Chiang Mai–about two hours after we were scheduled to leave, typically Thai-style!–and quickly discovered what all the fuss was about. The only way I can describe this road is that while I was in the backseat holding on for dear life, I felt like I was actually riding on a slithering snake. Not that the road was snake-like, but that I was actually riding on the back of a snake that was racing away from something, and perhaps its life was even on the line. Upon arriving in Pai, we were greeted with stalls selling tees proclaiming “I survived 762 turns to get to Pai!” Nice.

We quickly lined up a little bungalow right on the river. The view was fantastic:

The view from our bungalow

The view from our bungalow

The room itself was a bit of an adventure. The water was intermittent–one day I was in the middle of a shower and the water suddenly went down to a trickle. I sent Adam to the reception desk to let them know and see what the problem was and the response was, “No, there is no water. The power’s out.” Just very matter-of-fact, as if it happened all the time. Too funny. Also, the room did have screens in the windows (better than mosquito nets!), and even better than that, it came with the added feature of just enough lizards to eat any mosquitoes that did manage to make it into the room. Bonus! Honestly though, it was pure luxury for the whopping $9 per night that we paid. Can’t beat it.

While we were in Pai, we spent most of our time out exploring the area on motorbikes. Well, motorbike is a bit of a stretch–they called them motorbikes in Pai, but let’s be honest:

Think Adam's dad would ride with him?

Co0-00-000l Rider!

Sweet helmet

Yes, I'm wearing a pink helmet with a badass visor. I am always practical.

We had an amazing time, just wandering through the countryside and the villages surrounding Pai.

farmland

countryside 2

boys playing in Pai River

countryside

stream and hut

We did run into a couple of roadblocks though:

Face-off

Face-off

Even better than the landscape was the opportunity to interact with some of the local kiddos. As we drove through a small village that was nothing more than a Wat and a row of homes, we suddenly heard “Hellooooooo! Thank you!!!!” We looked over and saw a gaggle of little ones running towards us, shouting the only two words that they knew in English. I responded with the only two words that I knew in Thai, which also happened to be Hello and Thank you. :-)   After a couple of minutes, I asked if I could take a picture and the three bravest promptly lined up and posed for me.

Little hams

Little hams

I know, same same, but they were too cute to resist!

I know, same same, but they were too cute to resist!

I love watching monks playing--such a strong reminder that most of them are just boys!

I love watching monks playing--such a strong reminder that most of them are just boys!

We also visited one of the many local waterfalls and had a rough day of relaxing and watching the local boys play on the rocks.

That speck in the top left hand corner, on top of the rocks?  That's Adam.

That speck in the top left hand corner, on top of the rocks? That's Adam.

Waterfall surfing--perhaps the next olympic sport?

Waterfall surfing--perhaps the next olympic sport?

And a final shot from Pai, just for fun:

Beat that, Memphis!  Pai has ribs AND fondue!

Beat that, Memphis! Pai has ribs AND fondue!

~ Meg

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